The Reclad Process

We are going to show you an example of an average repair/ reclad to a leaky home. The following process may change depending on the particular house and circumstances.

You will have to move out for the duration of the re building process. Some furniture may be able to stay in the house but will need to be discussed first.

Step 1:

- Pre construction meeting
A meeting with the owners, builders, architects and a council member will take place prior to any work starting. At this stage any questions will be answered and once the house is inspected by the member of the council the job can get underway.

Step 2:

- Scaffold and External Fixings
Scaffold is erected around the house, in most cases shrink wrap is used for protection and any external fixings are taken down and stored away for the re fixing or replacing at the end of the job.

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Inside the house every precaution is taken to safely cover everything that is not being replaced, ie carpet is covered with plastic wrap and tiles with carpet or rubber sheets.


Step 3:

-The Demolition Process Begins
The removal of the existing plaster cladding commences. This is achieved by using specialised wet saws, to limit the amount of dust. The plaster is cut into grids and removed into a hard fill bin

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Step 4:

Once the existing cladding has been removed and the framing is clear of all staples/nails and old building paper, a timber consultant inspects the timber and marks with spray paint any timber to be replaced. The council inspector photos the wall and the builders can start replacing the rotten timber. If there is a wall with more then 50% rot we will prop the ceiling and replace the whole wall. Any timber not replaced is coated with Frame Saver to treat the timber to H1.2 treatment.

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Step 5:

At this stage a decision is made to form a concrete nib if the timber bottom plate is within 150mm to the concrete drive or paths or 225mm from gardens or grass. We do this buy cutting the studs and framing an extension to the slab by way of 100mm or 150mm concrete nib.

This process may not be necessary if the ground levels are being dropped or if a grate drain is being cut into the concrete. However the concrete nib is the tidiest option that we prefer to use. The concrete nib is boxed up and reinforcing is checked by a council inspector before the concrete is poured. We use a higher then normal strength concrete so we can load up the nib and finish framing after 2 days of pouring the concrete. The bottom plate is installed and bolted down and framing connected.

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Step 6:

Now that the wall framing is up to scratch and more importantly rot free, the insulation can now be re fitted. In most cases we increase the rating of the bats to comply with the new regulations. After a few years the bats may have shrunk so new and thicker bats will also help with heating costs in winter.

Step 7:

Where there is a penetration in the exterior wall ie, a light fitting or plumbing pipes we solid nog and drill a hole to fit the pipe or wire through. This gives a solid backing for the building paper to be fixed to and the penetration can be sealed, and will insure nothing encroaches into the 20mm cavity formed on the next stage.

Step 8:

BRANS approved building paper/ wrap is stapled onto the frame work. This is a breatherable product that keeps water out while still allowing ventilation through the framing. The paper is set out to hang 30mm past the bottom plate, this gives ample cover for the bottom plate and gives us a height to bring our cavity battens down to.

The weatherboards will finish 20mm below this mark giving you a 20mm drip edge to comply with the regulation of having the weatherboards finishing a minimum of 50mm past the bottom plate of the framing. All penetrations ie pipes and wires are brought out through the building wrap and taped with a flexible rubber waterproof detail tape. The windows are cut out and the wrap is folded inside the window space. The corners of the window and bottom trimmer are taped with alu ban window tape.


Step 9:

Cavity battens are used to form an air gap between the exterior cladding and the frames. The required cavity space is 20mm so a H3.1 treated timber packer is fixed off to the studs (on top of the building wrap). This is done using 75mm stainless steel nails fixed at 300 centres.

The cavity batten is 45mm wide (to match the stud it is nailed to) and 20mm thick (to form the 20mm cavity). At the bottom of the cavity battens there is a plastic strip. This closes off the cavity to help prevent rodents from making a home out of your new cavity space.

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In all the internal corners of the house we use a w-mould aluminium flashing. We started using this product because it allows us to entirely finish a wall or elevation of the house, rather then having to mitre weatherboards from the adjacent elevation. It also gives the internal corner full protection from the elements.

Step 10:

Weatherboard heights are set up to ensure the required cover past the bottom plate (50mm) is reached, and measured to the top of the windows. The majority of the window heights around the house will be the same. The distance from the bottom weatherboard and the top of the window is divided up into even spacing and lap for the weatherboard. The weatherboards are then cut and all corners and areas cut are primed with paint.

They are then nailed to the cavity battens at pre determined heights. Once we reach the top of the window a window flashing is put in place. Once the window is fixed in place, the cavity battens can be finished and vent strip is put in place to block the cavity. The weatherboards can now be finished above the window.

Step 11:

Scribers and other finishing details can now be fitted...


Step 12:

Once we have a few walls finished we get the painter in to prime all the weatherboards, fill the nail holes and apply a further 2 coats of paint. Weatherboards left exposed to the elements can crack and open up so we get the paint on them as soon as possible

Step 13:

Inside the house - If there has been no rotten timber to replace, the only area to repair will be around the windows. In most cases a window with a grooved jam has been cut out, sent away for re sealing and re jamming and returned to the job. This is then set back into place with a foam backing rod around the window. Packers and nails hold the window plumb and level and expanding foam is sprayed to seal off any gaps. The window is then finished off with a 40mm or 60mm architrave which should cover any gaps caused when the windows were cut out. The painter then fills the nail holes and paints the window. In most cases if the house is over 10 years old the painter will paint the entire room at the owners wish.


Step 14:

By now the exterior of your house is weather tight, spouting's are re attached and light fittings are reinstated. The painter has finished and all that's left outside once the scaffolding is dismantled is for ground works to be completed.

In some cases the ground levels will need to be lowered to maintain a safe distance from the ground floor level.

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Step 15:

Once the painter is finished inside, the house can be cleaned up, all the protective plastics removed and your house is looking like new again.

Once again if the house and carpet are over 10 years old the owner may choose to have new carpet laid.


Step 16:

Scaffold dismantled, earth works done to standard, house cleaned inside and out, now your ready to move back into your rebuilt home.